Color palette tutorial time!
This is by no means the Only Way To Pick Colors—it’s just a relatively-simple method I use sometimes. I’ve found it works pretty well, almost regardless of what colors you pick—as long as you can keep them organized by those light/dark warm/cool categories, and make sure one category takes up a significantly higher proportion of page space, it usually turns out pretty good!
Another superb fuck-ton of head angle references.
Another superb fuck-ton of head angle references.
I found these videos forever ago (I’m talking like, a year) and forgot to post ‘em..
So, here they are! Basically the idea is that you can pause ‘em and get tons of different face lighting references, I think.
I’ve been getting a lot of asks lately about the brushes and textures I use in my work, so here’s a BIG FAT REFERENCE POST for those of you who were curious! Bear in mind that I’m really lazy and don’t know what half the settings do, so don’t be afraid to experiment to figure out what works best for you :>
I use the pencil tool with SAI’s native paper texture both for sketching and for applying opaque color with no blending. Lower opacities give it the feel of different pencil hardnesses, while full opacity makes it more like a palette knife, laying down hard-edged, heavy color for detail work or eventual blending with other brushes.
Mostly made this because I’m lazy and I didn’t want to have to keep turning my textures off/opacity up when I wanted to ink something (even though I don’t do it very often), or lay down flat colors. I find the line quality to be much more crisp than Photoshop, and you can manually adjust in-program stabilization to help smooth out hand wobbles.
The plain ol’ brush tool acts as sort of an in-between for me in terms of brush flow. It’s heavier than my usual workhorse brush, for faster color application and rough blending, but not as heavy as the pencil tool, which has no blending at all. I like to use the canvas texture on this brush to help break up the unnatural smoothness that usually accompanies digital brushes, but it works just fine without.
A brush tool set to flat bristle is by far my favorite to paint with. I don’t use any textures with it because I think the shape of the brush provides enough of that by itself. I use it for everything from rough washes to more refined shaping and polish. It’s just GREAT.
Best used for smooth blending, washes, gradients, and smoky atmospheric effects.
Basically a grittier version of the watercolor tool, because too much smoothness weird me out. Good for clouds and fog, as the name suggests, or just less boring gradient fills.
To further stave off the artificially smooth look of digital painting, I almost always overlay some sort of paper texture, and it’s almost always this one, which I scanned and edited myself. You’re all welcome to use it, no permission required!
Using overlays in SAI is just as easy as using them in Photoshop. Just paste the texture into its own layer above everything you want it to apply to, and change the layer mode to Overlay. That’s it!
Want a more prominent texture? Up the contrast. Something more subtle? Lower the contrast or reduce the layer opacity. You can also use a tinted overlay to adjust the overall palette and bring a little more color unity to an otherwise disparate piece! Just be aware that too much texture can hurt the readability of the work beneath it, so I’d err on the side of subtlety.
Hope that helps!
- The closest I could find on Amazon to the watercolour set I use is the Sakura brand of Koi Assorted WaterColours Field Set.
- Just use any old toothbrush. I used to use the ones that my dentist would give me after a visit, just because those were kind of cheap and I wouldn’t actually use them anyways.
- I use acrylic for flicking and highlights because watercolour-whites tend to fade when they dry.
- Also, remember to keep your hands clean, because nothing’s worse than smudging graphite into your watercolours and then unable to get it out.
- Try to avoid black and white when possible. They tend to dull the colours and it loses that watercolouring lustre.
Since I started watercolouring again for my daily sketches, I’ve gotten a lot of asks/dA notes on if I could give a tutorial on watercolouring and also more specific questions that overlapped each other, so I decided to do a semi guide/tips/answering thing.
I actually started watercolouring before I went into digital medium, so I have a bit of personal experience, but I am essentially self-taught when it comes to watercolouring since there weren’t a lot of watercolour tutorials online back then to begin with, so I cannot promise that these are the absolute correct way of doing things.
Hope it helps anyways :)
My Other Tutorials/Guides | My Daily Sketches
Tutorial: from paper to digital.
Hey ya’ll! I’m not much of a tutorial person, but this was a technique that I learned from Syuzuki, one of my favorite artists back in the day, when I was 13. I memorized the technique and it’s been one of the most useful things I can do on photoshop. This was something that really helped me, and I hope that it will be useful for even some of you.
In this tutorial, I will be going step by step how I take something from my sketchbook and color it on photoshop.
This site has some cool arm anatomy, especially about how it changes as it twists, which is often neglected in ref!
Main account reblog if you didn’t see this fun thing *v *
An okay fuck-ton of simple shoulder movement references (per request).